Blood on the Tracks


The ancient city of Peshawar is a fascinating place where the smell of history is as almost as thick as the smog at rush hour. When my dear friend Prince, a local who knows the streets of the city like few others, suggested we go watch "chicken fighting" I knew that there was no way I was going to miss what he had to show me. 

A short rickshaw ride took us to some rusty railway tracks. Following these brought us to a small bazaar with rickety old shacks lining the sides. According to Prince, these tracks were pretty far from disused. Trains would pass by regularly causing everyone to scatter, like a crack den version of the famous Maeklong market in Thailand. 

The place was packed. By a wall on the far side of the bazaar was the corner where heroin addicts chased dragons. However, the most addicting part of the market was clearly not heroin. The people were here for the cockfights.

Birds are bought and sold by the railway tracks

The cocks are placed on the ground by their owners and fight until one animal runs away. The fights usually are not lethal.

The fights can be quite ferocious, and the birds may sustain savage injuries. 

Proud owners present their birds.



The crowd intently watches as the cocks fight

A bird's injuries are inspected after a fight

The brick wall is lined with heroin addicts, hidden behind the crowd


Different goods are sold by the tracks, including second-hand shalwar kameez and dubious herbal medicines

People in the bazaar are as welcoming and kind to outsiders as always in Pakistan. People, such as this man, would approach me asking for their photo to be taken.

Heroin is smoked behind the thin cover provided by blankets

A boy selling various bits and pieces in the bazaar - including gun components

Close up of the goods

A watch salesman